Winter dishes to try in Cappadocia
Soups
Turkish cuisine has dozens of soups, and in winter they're a meal in themselves. I have my favorites, and a few I'd never dare to try, like tripe soup (işkembe çorbası), which is a Turkish hangover classic. These are the ones I'd order again:
Red lentil soup (mercimek çorbası): creamy and nourishing, always served with a squeeze of lemon.
Yogurt soup (yayla çorbası): a yogurt soup sounds weird, but believe me, this tangy soup with rice and mint is perfect on cold days.
Mantı soup (yüksük çorbası): less common, but a delicious combination of mantı (meat-filled dumplings) and chickpeas in a savory broth with tomato paste and mint.
Testi kebab
Cappadocia's signature dish is made for a cold, snowy day. Meat (beef or chicken) and vegetables cook slowly in a sealed clay pot, and the waiter cracks it open at your table. Most restaurants serve testi kebab, but the original is cooked for hours in a tandır, a traditional clay oven, and few places still keep that tradition. It's not my favorite dish, so I won't point you to a specific place. If you want to try it, ask whether it's cooked in a tandır.
Iskender kebab
The opposite of testi kebab, İskender is my favorite kebab in Turkey, and it's best on cold days. Thin slices of döner are served over pieces of pide, covered in tomato sauce and melted butter, with yogurt on the side. It's rich enough to feel heavy in summer, but in winter it's exactly what you want. My favorite places for it are away from the tourist areas, but there's a small one in Ürgüp worth trying: Dünya İskender Kebap.
Mantı
Tiny dumplings filled with spiced meat, served warm with garlicky yogurt and a drizzle of melted butter with chili flakes. It's a safe bet almost anywhere in Cappadocia, and a good choice if you want something lighter than a kebab but still warming. Kayseri, just next door, is famous for making them especially small. In Göreme, I'd try Mozaik restaurant or Topdeck cave restaurant.
Winter treats
Some of the best things to eat, or drink, in Cappadocia only show up when it gets cold.
Salep
A hot, creamy milk drink thickened with orchid-root flour and topped with cinnamon. It tastes like winter in a cup, and it's a must for me.
Boza
Thick, slightly tart fermented millet drink, topped with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas. You'll either love it or hate it. I belong to the group that hates it, but you should try it once.
Roasted chestnuts
People roast them at home on wood-burning stoves, and street stands sell them hot all season. Buy a paper cone and eat them while they're still warm.
Pekmez
Grape molasses, made from the same vineyards as the local wine. At breakfast, mix it with tahini and spread it on fresh bread. It's sweet, filling and perfect before a cold day out.
Cappadocian wine
Cappadocia has been making wine for thousands of years, and Ürgüp is the heart of it. In winter, I look for two red grapes: Öküzgözü, soft and fruity, and Boğazkere, bold and full-bodied. Some wines blend the two, and those are among my favorites.
Turasan and Kocabağ are the best-known names and easy to find in restaurants and shops. My own favorite is Gülor, which is a bit harder to find but worth it. If you want to taste a few before you buy, Efendi Wine House is a small place in Ürgüp that's great for it.
Best restaurants in Cappadocia for winter
These are the places I recommend all year, but winter is when they really stand out. The nights are long, the rooms are warm, and a good dinner here can easily last the whole evening.
Restaurants here are heated, so dress in layers you can take off.
Barbarian Medieval Tavern, Ürgüp
A themed restaurant with a perfect winter atmosphere. The food is exceptional, and it's worth going for the experience alone. Find it on Google Maps.
Pumpkin Restaurant and Art Gallery, Göreme
Small and cozy, with beautiful decoration created by the owners themselves. It feels like eating in someone's creative home. Find it on Google Maps.
Seki Restaurant, Uçhisar
Inside Argos in Cappadocia, Seki is popular in summer for its terrace and views, but I find it especially charming in winter, with its warm atmosphere and fireplace. The food is excellent. Find it on Google Maps.
